96 Triumph Daytona 900 discussion forum:
RE: Thinking of buying a Triumph Daytona 900 1996 model
|RE: Thinking of buying a Triumph Daytona 900 1996 model|
|Leon (1994 Daytona 900) said 2003-11-03 18:16|
The following are based on about 20,000 miles of riding a 94 Daytona 900 over a period of about 8 years (my children were born during this period - thatŽs my excuse for the relatively paultry total for the time).
Nicely made, solid piece of engineering. Lots of room in the saddle. Very stable ride. Broad spread of torque meaning gear changes are kept to a minimum - 3rd gear is good for 20 - 80 mph (30-130kph). It lay power on the road very progressively, with no hint of transmission snatch as long as the engine is turning at more than 2500 rpm. The first chain is just about worn out now with 30,000miles (50,000km) on the clock (it has been regularly washed with parafin and lubricated with Scott Oil though). This is a top quality, very durable bike.
POINTS THAT DEPEND ON WHO YOU ARE
The bars are low for the reach over the tank. IŽve raised them above the top fork clamp - possible on 94s because they use longer stancions than the later models. There are riser kits available though.
This is a very large motorcycle. If you are tall (6foot / 1.8m), youŽll love it. If you are not, youŽll hate it.
This is a very stable motorcycle. If you like fast steering response to suit the smooth roads you never leave, you wonŽt like this bike. If you love predictable handling on poor surfaces (pot holes, overbanding, bumps), youŽll love this bike.
This bike has tons of character or personality. If you like to be able to swing a leg over a motorcycle and know all there is to know about it 20seconds later, youŽll hate this bike. If you like to find out how to get the best out of a bike and hence would be bored if there was nothing else to know after 20 seconds, this bike will not disappoint you.
There is a carburation flat spot between 2000 and 2500 rpm. The Dynojet kit improves this considerably at the cost of increasing fuel consumption.
The bike is top-heavy so it is hard to push around, although this feeling completely disappears when riding, even at walking pace.
You have to drain the oil to change the drive sprocket (or lean the bike over to the right far enough so the oil doesnŽt come out when you take off the sprocket cover.
Checking the oil level is done with a dipstick and thereŽs no center stand so you have to do it whilst astride the bike.
Access to the center spark plug is very restricted. You have to use the special plug spanner that comes with the bike, together with a 12mm allen key (should also be in the tool kit as it is need to adjust the rear chain). The end of the allen key fits in the top of the plug spanner.
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